Please Note: I received an advance copy of this novel from the publisher and NetGalley in exchange for an honest review. This did not influence the opinions in my review in any way.
Synopsis (from Goodreads):
Clementine is a seventy-two year-old reformed con artist with a penchant for impeccably tailored suits. Her life of crime has led her from the uber-wealthy perfume junkies of belle epoque Manhattan, to the scented butterflies of Costa Rica, to the spice markets of Marrakech, and finally the bordellos of Paris, where she settles down and opens a legitimate shop bottling her favorite extracts for the ladies of the cabarets.
In 1941, as the German's stranglehold on the city tightens, Clem's perfume-making attracts the notice of Oskar Voss, a Francophile Nazi bureaucrat, who comes to demand Clem's expertise and loyalty in his mysterious play for Hitler's favor. Clem has no choice but to surrender fully to the con, but while she knew playing the part of collaborator would be dangerous, she never imagined it would be so painfully intimate. At Oskar's behest, and in an effort to win his trust, Clem recounts the full story of her life and loves, this time without the cover of the lies she came to Paris to escape.
Complete with romance, espionage, champagne towers, and haute couture, this full-tilt sensory experience is a dazzling portrait of the underground resistance of twentieth-century Paris and a passionate love letter to the power of beauty and community in the face of insidious hate.
Review:
Historical fiction centered around WWII could be an entire genre in and of itself. There's All The Light We Cannot See, The Nightingale, and The Paris Library, just to name a few. One would think that everything on this subject has already been written. And you'd be wrong. I believe this is because WWII really was a world-wide event, that everyone on the planet was affected in one way or another. The Perfume Thief, by Timothy Schaffert, comes from the perspective of people on the fringe of Parisian society: gays and lesbians, prostitutes, singers, actors, and entertainers. These are people who the Nazi's either loved or hated (or both). If you were a member of one of these groups, you could never feel safe, as the Nazis would applaud them one day, and then round them up and send them to camps, the next.
Perfume is actually the perfect metaphor for this ever-changing state of danger. Fragrance evokes powerful memories, and yet can smell different on different people, or in different seasons. And the same smell can make each person react differently. It's all in the eye (or nose) of the beholder.
This is a story, not just of WWII, but of memories. Clementine, who is in her seventies, is hardly your typical senior citizen. She has lived an extraordinary life as a lesbian in eras from the Gilded Age in America through the Roaring Twenties, the Great War, and now WWII. Her memories are held as various perfumes and what meanings they had for her. This was a more cerebral book than I thought it would be. The characters, unusual storytelling, and insight into the world of perfume made this an outstanding reading experience.
What I Liked:
Historical Details:
Clementine's entire world is centered around perfume. She uses it to help people recall memories of lost loves, nostalgic childhoods, exciting vacations, or whatever her clients want to cling to. The language used in this book is lush in its details that conjure images of steamy nights, and exotic locales.
There are also details that I hadn't known about concerning Paris during the occupation. Jewish businesses, seized by the Nazis, became private department stores of pilfered Jewish goods. Rich Parisians, Nazi Officers, and others had their choice of what was stolen from the Jews, It was quite disturbing.
The novel also details the cabaret and bordellos of Paris. These establishments mostly catered to Nazis. But the novel shows that the people who ran these businesses couldn't have chosen to turn the Germans away. It's sad to remember that many of the women who became pregnant by Nazis were tormented at the end of the war, and often killed, for being seen as collaborators. But most of them had no choice in the matter.
Characters:
I love how Clem forms many strong friendships with people of different ages. She has friends her own age, but she also befriends young people, as well. But she does not take on the role of a parent to these younger people. I found this refreshing. Older people don't need to become a "mentor" to people just based on their age difference. But she does worry about her friends as the Nazi occupation drags on. As more and more homosexuals are targeted and sent away to camps, Clem is very concerned with protecting her young male friend named Blue. As Blue starts to take risks, Clem worries that she is the only one to see the danger ahead.
Day is another memorable character. Fashioned after the great Jazz signer, Josephine Baker, Day is an African-American woman who has settled in Paris after years of missed opportunities in America. With one mega hit song to her credit, she is a popular entertainer in Paris. But even though she is not French, she takes risks moving information from Nazi's to the Resistance. I loved Day's spirit.
Zoe is another entertainer in the nightclub that Clem frequents. This is one of those situations where you can't tell, from first glance, how she is resisting. She is having an affair with a Nazi officer, after all. But, really, she doesn't have a choice in the matter. If a Nazi officer wants to make you his mistress, their is little a woman can do. But Zoe remains strong.
Storytelling:
As Clementine narrates the story, we read snippets of her extraordinary, long life. From a girl on a farm, to an woman who daringly wears men's clothing, Clem has lived life on her own terms. There are letters between Clem and her one great love, spanning decades. In order to ingratiate herself with a Nazi, she tells stories of her life as a con artist and thief. These elements, as well as Clem simply recalling her many exploits, makes for a rich tapestry of storytelling.
Ordinary People Fighting Back:
All of the people in this book, each in their own way, find ways to resist the Nazi's. Although it would seem like the people working in the brothels are collaborating with their oppressors, that is far from the case. Several of the prostitutes are spying on the soldiers, and they find ingenious ways to send messages to the established Resistance. Plus, many of the characters resist in other ways. The singers in nightclubs might sings songs in English. People go out in the evening, daring the Nazi's to round therm up for being out past curfew. Even Clem's choice to wear men's clothing is a risk, as a Nazi might decide she is a lesbian and make an example of her.
Perfume:
The depictions of the perfume industry was truly fascinating. From the design of each bottle, to the ways in which the perfumes were manufactured, this was a true marriage of science and art. The story centers around a mysterious diary of a famous Jewish perfume maker. One of the characters is related to the creator of the diary, and if this connection is discovered, it would be a death sentence. Clem vows to find the document before the Nazis do. This leads to a journey of reflection as Clem uses her immensely interesting life to entertain the Nazi officer who is also in search of the elusive object. It's a game of cat and mouse that will keep you on the edge of your seat.
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Release Date: August 3, 2021
Author: Timothy Schaffert
Publisher: Doubleday Books
Genre: Historical Fiction
Page Length: 368 Pages
Source: NetGalley
Format: E-Book
Recommendation: Filled with lush descriptions, this historical novel of WWII is unlike any other. A reminder of how the resilience of people, even in direst of situations.